Deserted roads that wind through mountain passes, barren coastlines where customs have stood still, the solitude of centuries old towns ravaged by war yet unaffected in the old ways of life. Croatia, like any destination, reveals itself majestically, completely, when observed from the ultimate viewing platform, the bicycle.

When we arrive to the island it is already dark. The town of Pag, a small fifteenth-century village, looks deserted; we start walking through the small streets of the old town until we find a tiny restaurant where we can eat something quickly and talk about the next day and the ride that awaits us.
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